Ever since I fell down the vintage-hunting rabbit hole, Second Life Market has become my favourite Saturday ritual whenever it rolls into town. Among the rails of treasures and brilliant independent collectors, discovering J.S. Archive — a beautifully considered collection dedicated entirely to Jil Sander was such an exciting find.
Social media has changed the way we consume fashion. We scroll, save and often form an opinion about a garment through a single image on a screen. But in doing so, it can be easy to overlook the precision of a cut, the quality of a fabric and the dedication behind every detail.
Perhaps appreciating Jil Sander is about learning to see beauty in its purest form. In many ways, J.S. Archive carries the same spirit. It is not simply about collecting Jil Sander, but about living with her work, understanding it and building a world around it. Pieces are studied, cared for, mended and repaired when needed. It is a slower, more devoted relationship with clothing.
A2Z met Sven Steinmetz, the mind behind J.S. Archive, inside his beautiful studio on the top floor of an old Victorian building, where he reflects on how a personal fascination became an archive, what years of living with Jil Sander’s work have taught him, and why preserving fashion can be just as meaningful as discovering it.
What was the first Jil Sander piece you found, and do you still have it?
The first Jil Sander piece I found was a blazer from winter 1996. When I saw the piece online I ordered it as it seemed like a classic piece for a reasonable price. I then experienced what should happen many more times when unboxing a Jil Sander piece; I couldn’t stop being amazed by the cut, the fabric and the finishings of the piece. It is made of a thick double-knit wool which makes it comfortable and warm, while the sharp cut pulls the piece together. The details of the pockets and darts alongside the sharp edges, give it a subtle, yet beautiful finish.
This was about 10 years ago and you can still find me wearing this piece on a regular basis. This is the same with most Jil Sander garments I find, I treasure them as I just keep finding them getting better and better over time.
Was there a specific moment you realized this wasn’t just a collection anymore — that you were going to turn it into J.S. Archive?
A2 After a couple of years of having vintage Jil Sander pieces for my own wardrobe I realised that others might appreciate these garments as well. This is how I started creating J.S. ARCHIVE in 2022, mostly as a website and shop at first. But as the project grew I wanted to keep pieces permanently, creating a collection and archive, which now holds over 150 garments alongside accessories, original look books and other Jil Sander objects.
Your archive goes beyond the garments, the books, the printed material. It almost feels like stepping into someone’s universe. What’s something you’ve learned from Jil Sander, the brand, the person, or the philosophy?
I have learned so much from this project, mostly how diligent and devoted Frau Sander must have been at work. Her mind is sharp and honest, just like her fabrics and cuts she developed. I myself try to follow her ethos and give my dedication to every detail as much as possible. This has changed the way I do things in life also, something I really appreciate as I believe it helped me grow and develop even further.
People call Jil Sander “minimalist,” but she rejected that word. In one interview she described her work as “purity.” Having spent this much time with the pieces, how would you describe the brand?
I think Frau Sander is completely right in calling her work pure. There are no unnecessary details, most design decisions are originating from the need for a well functioning garment; which is a very German philosophy, similar to what Dieter Rams has achieved at Braun and Vitsoe in the 1960s and 1970s. However if I had to find my own words, I would describe her work as sincere.
What would you like to see from Jil Sander in the future?
I think that the brand is going into an interesting direction under Simone Bellotti’s leadership. He beautifully ties the heritage of the brand into his own, contemporary vision. The future of the brand can have many interesting turns, fashion is not the same as it was in the 1990s or 2000s. It would be interesting if vintage pieces would tie more into contemporary collections.
